Alkefjellet bird cliff in Svalbard

The Alkefjellet bird cliff is probably one of the most famous ones on the Svalbard archipelago. It is the home to approximately 100,000 Brünnich’s guillemot that come there to breed after winter. Knowing this, the translation of Alkefjellet from the Norwegian language makes a lot of sense: the guillemot mountains. It is located on the west side of the Hinlopen Strait, on the island of Spitsbergen.

Now let’s just stop one second and think… Can you imagine how it feels like to be surrounded by 100,000 birds? Yes, I did use 5 zero’s: one hundred thousand birds! Read on to find out more. I have also included a short video of the cliff to give a better idea of the situation.

The Brünnich’s guillemot

Let’s start with a quick biology lesson. The Brünnich’s guillemot (uria lomvia) is an auk (or alcid). It is slightly smaller than the common guillemot that I showed you from my trip to Hornøya island just off mainland Norway. Auks are sea birds that are more comfortable swimming and diving than flying in the air. They “fly” under water to catch their preys, mostly fish and crustaceans. They usually dive to a depth of about 50 meters, but have been seen down to 100 or even 200 meters! The Brünnich’s guillemot breeds in dense colonies that vary between a hundred pairs to hundreds of thousands like in Alkefjellet.

A Brünnich's guillemot swimming in the frigid Hinlopen Strait
A Brünnich’s guillemot swimming in the frigid Hinlopen Strait. Canon 1DX Mk II – 100-400mm – 400mm – f/5.6 – 1/1000s – ISO 1600

According to the Norwegian Polar Institute, the Svalbard population is about 850,000 pairs. The population has been stable since the 1990’s. However, like any other seabird, the Brünnich’s guillemot remains very sensitive to the availability of fish in the oceans, and (plastic) pollution and overfishing remain threats every day.

A lucky halo

In the morning of Day 3 of our expedition, we sailed down a surprisingly ice-free Hinlopen Strait and arrived at the Alkefjellet cliff. One of the many reasons why I love the Arctic is that there are often the right conditions for all sorts of atmospheric optics. That day, when we approached the bird cliff, we were greeted by a magnificent 22° sun halo.

A 22° sun halo above the Alkefjellet bird cliff
A 22° sun halo above the Alkefjellet bird cliff. The specks on the image are not sensor dots: they are guillemots! Canon 5D Mk IV – 16-35/2.8 – 16mm – f/8 – 1/2500s – ISO 400

Halos are always hard to photograph because of the strong contrast between the brightness of the sky, and the shadows of other elements in the landscape. Normally, I would use a (strong) neutral density graduated filter but that wouldn’t work with the cliff on the right, and empty space on the left. Another option would be to bracket several exposure and create an HDR image in post processing: another challenge on a moving boat! Third solution, and the one I chose: expose for the highlights, and just push the shadows up in Lightroom.

Often in the field, you cannot use the ideal technique, and just have to adapt yourself to find the best compromise between the situation and the result that you are looking for.

Approaching the Alkefjellet bird cliff

Still on board the MS Freya, we approached the bird cliff from the north, and started sailing along it very slowly. The halo was still accompanying us. With the proximity to the cliff, the sound of the birds became louder than the ship’s engine, and it was soon all what we could hear.

Sailing along the Alkefjellet bird cliff
Sailing along the Alkefjellet bird cliff. Canon 5D Mk IV – 16-35/2.8 – 16mm – f/8 – 1/500s – ISO 400
Countless Brünnich's guillemots on the Alkefjellet bird cliff
Countless Brünnich’s guillemots on the Alkefjellet bird cliff. Canon 1DX Mk II – 100-400mm – 100mm – f/5.6 – 1/1000s – ISO 1250

I put together a short video to give an impression of the cliff. Make sure to watch it in HD!

 

Slow shutter speed panning of bird in flight

I had seen amazing pictures by Ole Jørgen Liodden, a very experienced Norwegian wildlife photographer, and decided I would try to capture something similar if the conditions were right. Luckily, with the hazy sky, the light was quite soft and it provided ideal conditions. With the right angle, the water also had an amazing blue/green colour. Of course, the first few shots were misses, but with 100,000 birds there and thousands flying off all the time, there were enough opportunities to finally get what I had in mind.

Slow shutter speed panning of a Brünnich's guillemot above water
Brünnich’s guillemot flying low above water. Slow shutter speed panning. Canon 1DX Mk II – 100-400mm – 241mm – f/5 – 1/50s – ISO 50

If you want to try too, just use the settings in the image caption as a starting point, and fine tune them according to the available light. And just for a comparison, this is how it looks like without the panning, and with a faster shutter speed to get everything sharp.

Brünnich's guillemot above water.
Brünnich’s guillemot from above. Canon 1DX Mk II – 100-400mm- 400mm – f/5.6 – 1/1000s – ISO 2000

How to photograph the Alkefjellet bird cliff

A final word of advice: of course, you will want to use your tele lens there to get close-ups of the birds. However, this is a typical place where the environment is a huge part of the story, if not the biggest part. Don’t forget to use your wide angle lens as well to show how impressive this all is! Making a few video clips can also be a really good idea, as no photo will ever transcribe the real feeling at this location. As always, I wrote the settings of each photo in the captions. Let me know in the comments if you want to know anything more!

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This Post Has 3 Comments

  1. That’s a lot of zeroes and a lot of birds! Love the panning shot over water :)

    1. Thank you Lisa! And yes, that’s really a lot of birds! Every horizontal surface of the cliff is occupied!

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